Catit, 57 Nahalat Binyamin Street, Tel Avivby Sarit Goffen | 02.10.13
A few weeks ago I wrote about chef Meir Adoni’s restaurant Mizlala. While shooting in the restaurant, something curious was happening behind the great wooden doors at the right-hand side of the restaurant.
The commotion drew my attention (as well as the attention of most of the diners) to the Adoni’s beloved “first-born”- Catit- the flag-ship of the talented and creative Adoni.
Curiosity brought me again to the location of Mizlala, this time, to the other side of the door where Catit is now located, sharing the same space as Mizlala.
The visit offered me a few hours of grace and pure pleasure behind the scene of one of the most fascinating kitchen in the Israeli culinary arena, in the company of master Adoni and executive chef Yonatan Danon, Adoni’s right hand in the past 8 years. And as Meir told me, “with Yoni I don’t need to speak. He understands me through the eyes alone”.
The culinary experience in the new Catit suits the new surroundings perfectly. The place is intimate, but the wild energy of the sister-restaurant behind the door creates harmony to the molecular and modern menu that characterize Catit’s kitchen under chef Adoni.
The menu’s concept aims to pleasure the diner and allow for an over-all experience that is more accessible and wide-range with an interesting tasting menu that is less structured than most tasting menus. It is an open menu with various options (“Autumne Degustatsion”). The diner can choose the nature of the experience, what dishes to eat and how many.
This flexibility, combined with the symbiosis created by the two spaces of Catit and the Mizlala, bring Catit to a more accessible place in terms of the diners, accessibility it was once lacking. It almost feels like that the door opening to Catit holds a secret behind it, a secret the diner can share, and a pleasure waiting to be experiences by those who once were intimidated by Catit.
The place now allows Adoni and Danon (executive chef and a talent by all rights) to give the diners a two-Michelin star experience, with a modern and vibrant style that is more New York than Paris and with a maximum personal touch to boot.
I believe the new Catit found the perfect balance to bridge its gaps and allow chef Adoni more room to be wildly creative.
The pictures are showing some of the wonderful dishes I tasted:
Coquille St. Jacques Carpaccio
Beetroot, apple, celery, beetroot macaroon with yuzo aioli, honey and truffle jelly, malt crumble Quince crème, licorice, smoked Crème fraîche, apple and chamomile consommé
Local White Grouper
Acorn squash in textures, milk foam, pumpkin seed oil, whipped hollandaise, black couscous, tarragon, pine nuts, sunflower seeds.
Veal fillet, aubergine roasted in white miso, shiitake consommé “spaghetti”, black truffle, king trumpet, parmesan crème, cured yolk, veal stock.